May 7 “Lazy Swell”

This swell is lazier than me. Calm winds early morning but soft conditions and a mid tide. Don’t expect anything spectacular but as always it’s something to ride.

Chest high and soft, raining on and off  and crowds are thin.

Life is good and money from tourist scarce but this time of year is why I love it here.  I hope you enjoy the photos today. I spent a couple of hours in the hot sun. Send me an email if you need to find photos or if you want to book us for a session.



















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